Of course, celebrations in Tracht have always existed. But today it's not just the Trachten and rifle clubs in the countryside celebrating in Dirndl and Lederhosen – nearly every Bavarian city does the same at their many folk festivals and fairs. The ladies throw on their festive Dirndl dresses, the men their Lederhosen and jackets, when the folk festival season in Bavaria kicks off in spring. In autumn, Bavarian folk festivals reach their peak season.
Not so long ago, the simple wash-and-wear Dirndl in cotton was a popular festival Dirndl. Traditional, in patterned cotton, and practical because you could simply wash it after an exuberant evening in the beer tent. Today, a folk festival is a festive occasion for which you dress up in an exclusive Dirndl and put on your finest attire, just as it used to be. Perhaps in midsummer or at a daytime forest festival you can wear light, airy Dirndl. Otherwise, the rule for the festive Dirndl dress is: elegant and refined. The materials for long festive Dirndl are velvet, woven jacquard fabrics or corduroy. Velvet Dirndl in green, blue or black have become the new must-have, not just at Munich's Oktoberfest. Designer Dirndl usually come tone-on-tone with the apron and are elevated with festive lace Dirndl blouses. New among the folk festival Trachten trends are also festive half-sleeve Dirndl – from Gottseidank or Almliebe, for example – which can be worn with or without a Dirndl blouse. Right at the fashion forefront are puff-sleeve Dirndl, whether just lightly puffed at the shoulder or with more volume in the sleeve. The half-sleeve Dirndl can be high-neck or with a classic neckline. What matters for an exclusive Dirndl for festive occasions is fine materials, high-quality buttons and premium fabrics, rather than too much glitter and silk. By the way: long festive Dirndl dresses with a skirt length of at least 75 centimetres are considered modern.
The Dirndl Blouse: Puff Sleeves Are Back
The Dirndl blouse plays a major role, especially in festive Tracht. It elevates the festive Dirndl and sets new trends and impulses. For years, the Dirndl blouse with slim sleeves and plenty of lace was considered the fashion highlight of festive women's Trachten fashion. It had replaced the puff-sleeve Dirndl blouse, which played a major role in country house fashion in the 80s. But everything comes back around in fashion and in Tracht. And so the puff-sleeve Dirndl blouse has made it back to the top of fashion. Trachten brands like Gottseidank, Heimatglück and Kinga Mathé led the way, bringing simpler, flowing Dirndl blouses with more volume in their new designer Dirndl collections. With puff sleeves, wider sleeves, or just a lightly puffed shoulder. Also trending are elegant Dirndl blouses with flutter sleeves. The short flared sleeve, reminiscent of angel wings, became a highlight at the last Munich Oktoberfest and was proudly worn by young, fashion-conscious Wiesn visitors.
Trachten Jackets: From Knit to Loden
At autumn folk festivals in particular, evenings can get quite chilly. A warm merino wool knitted jacket from Gottseidank, Astrifa or Felicitas fits perfectly over a festive Dirndl. For a more casual look, the hooded jackets from Liebling combine perfectly with jeans too. Jackets for festive Dirndl dresses are usually short, but not too short, so they can also be worn with trousers or a Trachten skirt. Neutral dark blue, green, grey or black go with almost any festive Dirndl. For a slightly more elegant and chic look at the folk festival, you can also wear a Trachten jacket or blazer in loden, linen or velvet. Particularly beautiful tailored Trachten jackets are available from Gottseidank, Kinga Mathé, Sportalm, Hammerschmid and Anno Domini. A special highlight are the linen jackets and bodice jackets from Lena Hoschek, as shown in the picture above.
In festive Trachten fashion for men, it used to be almost exclusively about the Lederhosen. Deerskin or goatskin Lederhosen? What embroidery? Knee-length or short? Laces or buttons? These are still the decisive questions for men heading to a folk festival. Lederhosen are now almost exclusively short, lighter in colour or in grey tones. The embroidery on deerskin and goatskin Lederhosen is subtle in grey, tone-on-tone, or in bold greens for those who want to stand out more.
But what has changed in festive Tracht is the more stylish combination of Lederhosen with a Trachten waistcoat or gilet. Jörg Hittenkofer from the Trachten company Gottseidank revolutionised the festive Trachten outfit by giving the Trachten waistcoat a slim cut. The modern Trachten gilet is predominantly high-neck and rather clean. The waistcoats are made from linen, loden or premium woven jacquard fabrics. Traditional Trachten waistcoats are also increasingly gaining ground, such as the Miesbach gilet with its front neckline and chain, and the coachman's gilet from the Dachau region, adorned with large decorative coin buttons. These Trachten waistcoats show that men also enjoy dressing up for folk festivals and want to stand out from everyday clothing. Almliebe also carries Miesbach gilets and coachman's gilets in the new men's Trachten collection.
The Trachten gilet is paired with slim-fit Trachten shirts with stand-up collars, either plain in white or light blue, or with subtle stripes. The classic checked shirt has had its day. For an especially festive Tracht look, a stylish Trachten jacket is worn over the Trachten shirt and gilet. Here too, Gottseidank was the pioneer, giving the jacket a slim cut and adapting it to modern menswear. Trachten knee socks – colour-coordinated with gilet and jacket – and classic black Haferlschuhe complete the perfect festive Trachten outfit. A matching traditional Trachten hat, by the way, adds individuality and flair to the Trachten outfit.